Crazy Times

Written on - 10/9/09 – 12/9/09 Politics…
As a result of Museveni taking away the Buganda king’s powers and privileges, the people of Buganda have been rioting for the past few days. The rioting started on the streets of Kampala and then moved else where. A few Peace Corps volunteers have been moved from their sites due to violence and killings. Even in Kyotera people were burning tires and shops were forced to close. This Saturday was the day when the Buganada king was supposed to have a ceremony which Museveni vetoed. While it was expected that the violence would increase that day as a result of the function not occurring, the violence and rioting actually died around that time. Still, more than a handful of people lost their lives as a result of this problematic situation.

India: Namaste (Hello, Goodbye – not to be mistaken as Shalom…the missing peace)

Words to describe India starting with the letter “I”: Intense, Intellectual, Icicle, Icky, Impressive, Important, Isolating (some words are better descriptions than others)

Flight info: Entebbe, Addis Ababa, Dubai (Wow!), Dehli
Dehli, Dubai, Addis Ababa (coming soon – fingers crossed), Entebbe

The Beginning:
First things first, I could not believe how excited I was to leave Uganda. Just being in the Entebbe airport put a huge smile on my face (sad I know…no comments necessary). Anyway, in the airport I met a nutrition major who was going back home to Canada after only 2 weeks in Uganda. In actuality she was supposed to stay a total of 3 months. It was interesting talking with her because her expectations of Uganda were incredibly high. It seemed she thought she was going to Europe as opposed to a third world African country. I realized after talking with her that I myself have very low expectations for most things (not people…sorry family/friends). If there is a place to relieve excrements, whether it be a pit or a silver toilet, I am quite satisfied. The meeting with this young woman surprised me because it made me realize that not everyone can do what we volunteers in Africa are doing. I always assumed that someone young, caring, and in the health field would feel automatically “at home” in such a situation because ultimately that is the life they will face in their field of work. You live and you learn.

Emirates – flight, staff, plane – WOW! Sleep, sleep, sleep…music listening…sleep, sleep, music listening/movie watching…sleep, sleep…music listening (Lady Ga-Ga: Intriguing)…landing = everything off. Arrived in Dehli early in the morning. Caught a bus to the New Dehli Station where the hotel Morgan and I decided to stay at (pre-planning) was located after exchanging money 47Rs = $1. After being dropped off by the bus I took a rickshaw to the hotel. Morgan had arrived that morning (3:30am or something crazy/tiring like that) and thus, was sleeping when I arrived. We had not seen each other in over 2 years (she moved to China – Nanjing - shortly after graduating from university), let alone traveled together in another country. This first meeting was crucial, easy and pleasant…very much like the rest of the trip. Besides for a few money issues, we both seemed to enjoy each other most of the time. I honestly cannot say that would happen with too many people I know and love.

Thank you Lonely Planet! If you do not know how much things cost you would be F** because the prices which some Indians try to sell their goods is hilarious. When we were buying our ticket from Dehli to New Jalpaiguri we were almost charged 1000Rs for a 400Rs ticket. Hells no! Sadly (or awesomely!) I have gotten cheaper and more assertive about costs and people cheating me since living in Uganda. I was not going to get screwed over in India. We purchased a 23:30 train ticket to New Jalpaiguri. That is right…we were not even in Dehli for 1 day!

The train moved. We stayed on top sleepers. Incredibly hot and suffocating, but helped with the sleep which we needed and got since we were on the train for over 30 hours. Unfortunately Morgan’s clock was off since coming from the US and so she had a difficult time sleeping and waking at “reasonable” times in India. Uganda fortunately was only 2 hours behind India so I almost could not even tell I was on a different continent :P. The train stopped at our stop in New Jalpaiguri incredibly early in the morning, around 4:30am. From there we took a Jeep (big in India, especially in the mountainous areas) to Darjeeling. While in the vehicle all of the woman received prayers and a string bracelet from a random man on the street of course for a generous gift of rupees. The ride was uneventful but beautiful. Darjeeling is on a hill/high elevation/mountains. It was sort of scary going up this very windy and steep hill in the Jeep. After arriving in Darjeeling we found a random hotel with a view. We were even able to negotiate and lesson the price from 600Rs to 500Rs total. We then went to a travel agency to set up our trek. 6 day 5 night trek on the border of Nepal/India. The rest of the day we had free to do whatever. We walked around the bazaar, I bought underwear, we drank tea, ate food (Wow! Flavors…I forgot I had taste buds while in Uganda), and discussed the rest of our trip plans. Morgan wanted to stay in Varanasi (next stop) the rest of the time where she could relax, do yoga and meditate, while I wanted to go to Agra (west of Varanasi) to see the Taj Mahal. We decided that we would split up a few days before the end of our trip.

The Middle: The Trek Begins…and ends, eventually:
Woke up early in the morning and met up with our guide for the next 6 days, Pema. He kept talking about how the first day would be difficult and how it would determine our abilities/pace for the next few days. As a result, I was quite nervous about being able to handle the beginning day. We drove to where we would begin our trek. There was a great deal of rain and fog. Overall, the trek was not too difficult. It was just very steep at certain points. We walked for a bit and then stopped for tea (this is basically the pattern for the next few days). The trek was beautiful…all of the days, even though for the most part it was rainy, cold and wet (webele nyo mama wange for bringing my jacket and jaja wange for purchasing it). Trek Itinerary:
Mana Bhanjang – Tumling
Tumling – Sandakphu = altitude 3636m
Sandakphu – Sandakphu = rained in
Sandakphu – Phalut
Phalut – Rimbik = 35km making up for being rained in
Day 4 included one of the reasons why I was in India…to see the mountains, in particular, Everest. We woke up early that morning, around 5am in order to get a view of Khangchndzonga (spelling questionable...each time I spell the name it will be slightly different – one of them is probably correct) and Everest from the hill near our lodge. However, the cloud coverage was too great so we went back down for breakfast. It seemed that things were clearing by the end of breakfast so I decided to go up the hill, myself, again to see if I could see the view. When I first got to the top the clouds were still heavy, but all of a sudden I saw a few snowy peaks of Khangdendzoga (3rd highest mountain in the world, highest in India). The view was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life! I also viewed Everest and its surrounding mountains in Nepal. I called all the others from below who were skeptical about the possibility of seeing anything to come and see the magnificent view. Unfortunately, when they arrived to the top, Khagchendzoga was covered by clouds again, but at least they got a pretty good view of Everest. After that “high,” we trekked ourselves to our final destination, mainly through woods. This part of the trek was very different than all of the other rocky days. Our final destination was Rimbik, where we were able to take a hot shower (such luxuries)! Luckily, we were not mauled by a bear or leopard before the arrival.

The End: not of life, but rather the trip…end sounds so final – The Finale…even worse
We took another long train ride (14hrs + 7hrs late) to the Mughal Surai Junction in order to go to Varanasi. While on the train we talked about what type of hotel we wanted to stay in when we arrived. I wanted the cheap/in the city hotel, while Morgan wanted the more “upscale” ($8), outside of the city hotel. We went for the one which Morgan wanted because she was staying in Varanasi the rest of the time she was in India, while I would be leaving for Agra in 3 days.
Varanasi in a nut shell: crazy rickshaw (motor and bicycle) drivers
Yoga/meditation
Religious rituals/Ghats (Ganges River – lotus 10Rs long life)
Silk/incense
Ramagan Fort (history, Maharaja)
Sarnath (Place of the Buddha’s first speech)
People connections (until reality sets in)
Random Hebrew (Chabad)
Goodbyes - Until we meet again (probably in China)…goodbye, for now, to Morgan. We had a great time together.
I “lived it up” and took an air-conditioned sleeper car to Agra at 6am in the morning. When I arrived in Agra I took a rickshaw (driver Vickey – who would be my driver/tour guide the rest of the day) to my hotel. The hotel had an amazing view of the Taj from the top. I went to the Taj Mahal first and found a guide.
Built by Emperor Jahan for his 3rd wife…his first 2 wives could not produce children, the 3rd had 13 (the other two wives are buried in small structures around the Taj)
Beauty by numbers: 93˚ angles of the pillars in case of a natural disaster, the will not fall on the main structure (tomb)
22 steps to the tomb and took 22 years to build
Symmetry is key (fountains, grassy areas etc)
The day of seeing EVERYTHING in Agra: Akban’s Mausoleum (greatest Mughal
emperor)
Agra Fort (built by Akbar and additions by grandson,
Shah Jahan)
Tomb of Afzal Khan (poet and high official)
Baby Taj Mahal (Tomb of Mizra Ghiyas)
Stone shop (shop stop a must, in order not to be
overcharged for anything, mainly taxi rides) – met man who works in Brooklyn with the Jewish community, makes beautiful Pesach items and Mezuzahs
Diwali, the festival of lights and wealth was occurring over the next 3 days. As a result, that night there were fireworks and lots of bright and colorful lights.

The next day I took a train from Agra to Dehli. As soon as I arrived (of course late) I got a motor-rickshaw to the Bahai Temple. Incredible! The temple is in the shape of the lotus flower, on a very large compound like the others I have seen (Israel – Haifa, Uganda – Kampala, Illinois – Chicago (suburb)….I have now seen 4 out of the 7! One on each continent). I find the faith fascinating, being a combination of all religions, so I bought a book called “All Things Made New,” which is an introduction to the religion. Not that I am searching for new direction in my life, but rather the Bahai faith is a long time interest…as with many other things. After taking an auto-rickshaw to 2 stores (crazy driver wanted a gift for Diwali – I on the other hand did not want to buy a carpet, so I had the store owners (at least from the first store) talk with the driver). I made it out alive…and finally the driver took me to the Main Bazaar, where I wanted to go from the beginning of our “journey.” The Main Bazaar is a place to get anything and everything at pretty cheap prices. Surprisingly, the place catered to Israelis. There was Hebrew everywhere (spoken/written) in addition to many Indian sellers speaking the language (one man started speaking Hebrew to me thinking I was Israeli…some day). After purchasing a few things, I decided to head to the airport. As a result of Diwali, I was basically blackmailed to pay more in order to avoid stopping at 2 shops on the way to the airport (not much…but still, I knew what the cost should be). Overall, I enjoyed my time in India. However, I was incredibly happy to return “home” to Uganda to start afresh with the work I was doing. The beauty of the people, sites, behaviors is nothing like that of India.

Full circle: Back at Kiwanga. Fun times in K-town. I am presently trying to connect with organizations around the area (like last year, crazy I can say (type) that…I know people and organizations!).

Joy: Right before a baby receives an injection. Just hear me out before you judge!...It is fascinating. Before an injection a baby (infant size/like) is quiet and content, especially in Uganda. Babies here are rock solid unlike wimpy babies of the US and else where. Anyway, you give the baby an injection, usually in the right thigh area and it cries. But rather than a ridiculous uncontrollable wailing, this baby will look at you like you are a traitor, like you deceived her/him and questions this deception with a look of shock and horror because its comfortable life is now being threatened by this brief shock of pain. Even the cries give away the baby’s shock. It is delayed…like WT%$$#@!~!@#$%^&*() and then “waaa”!!!! (all different), like “why is this happening to me? What did I do to deserve this?” Still, the average cry is probably 2-4 wails and then over. Ugandan baby’s are tough suckers. Maybe you have to be there. Anyway, I enjoy this process immensely.

Future: Always in questions…plans are a rocking and swaying (sometimes swinging). They involve a boat and some duct tape. Don’t ask. If you do, remember, you have been warned.

Purple dragon (you know who, if not, again, do not ask) :P.

Next up - visit from Brian. Tentative plans (always changing): Kenya (Nairobi, Mombasa), Rafting, Bungee Jumping. More to come...

Visit from Banganda Bange

World wide apology (rather more like friends and family), sorry about the blog delay. Ever heard of a funk or writer’s block? I do not have the excuse of either. Rather, I have just been incredibly lazy and have not taken the time to prepare this (now lengthy) entry. Thank you for your patience. Please send the angry letters to the home.

Perspective from the inside: Peace Corps

Longer than my BSN essay…doesn’t take much (shorten a life journey from 5 pages to 1 – bitter, what?!)

In consideration of this inside perspective fact, future blogs/emails should be created in order to understand the views of others who participated in the trip. Thank you for your time.

They came…they saw…they went. What more can I say?

Change of plans: They Came…

My first day was fabulous. I had a nice relaxing day in Kampala and then was driven by J, our incredible friend and driver throughout the trip, to Cassio Lodge, an amazing hotel with a great view of Lake Victoria and stayed there that night alone, in the beautiful place with electricity and hot showers. On the other side of the world, the family was enjoying a nice relaxing day in New York City because of their missed flight (it would have been a perfect trip if they had gone to the theatre). The next day, I enjoyed a nice relaxing day in Kampala. In the evening I met J at Pearl of Africa so we could drive to the airport together. A coffee and 20 laps around the terminal later, they arrived. Even after a year apart we all recognized each other! Due to their late arrival, we had to change the plans of our travels a bit. Instead of going to Jinja the first part of the trip, we had to drive the eight hour journey to Murchinson Falls. On the way we stopped at Zziwa Rhino Sanctuary where we saw two female rhinos and learned the name for rhino in Luganda (I have already forgotten). Our afternoon chimpanzee track was uneventful besides for the nice walk and rain in the Kaniyo-Pabidi Forest. I am not going to describe every hotel/lodge we stayed at, but all I am going to say is: bulungi nyo (very good). These hotels were definitely not for a Peace Corps budget or anyone trying to save a bit of money. Anyway, they were amazingly nice and fancy…the food unfortunately was the same. Very rich in flavor, catering more to the muzungu taste than Ugandan, lacking matooke, ebijanjalo (beans), and muchere (rice) (sad news, I know). Obviously, the majority of people who travel to these areas are not Ugandan. Especially in the villages, it is very rare for Ugandan’s to travel mainly due to lack of funds. Still, many Ugandans are incredibly eager and willing to ask whether I can take them back to the United States with me when I return. This answer usually turns into a: “No” or “If you are able to get a visa” which is very difficult to obtain. Back on track…on with the trip. We began the next day with an amazing game drive in Murchinson Falls. J was driving while S sat in the front (sicky xoxoxo), D and myself sat in the middle, while M sat in the back. This was basically the driving set up for the whole trip. The top of the vehicle was lifted up so we could view our surroundings outside. At first we took pictures of anything and everything, not really believing that in front of us was a giraffe eating from a tree, or a buffalo drinking water. As we saw more animals, we (for the most part besides D :P) realized that we could be selective and take amazing photos of animals as they ran, walked, stood right beside our vehicle. We then took a boat ride on the Nile, viewing hippos and crocodiles before returning to our lodge for the evening. The walk to the top of the falls was pretty easy. The soothing sounds of the water crashing against the rocks and the incredible view (which included a rainbow!) made us want to stay there forever. Thankfully we moved on.

A few of our days were dedicated to driving or rather sitting in a car for hours at a time talking/reading/sleeping. While this sounds easy enough, considering the fact that the family dynamic has not been a major part of our lives for a few years, we were a bit rusty. Looking back on it all though, it was an enjoyable time and I think we all learned a little more about each of ourselves during the process. I also learned that my dislike for things I have never tried is pathetic (ie Harry Potter). I have read the whole Harry Potter series while in Uganda…loved it (#6 rocks). Other books I have loved: A Handmaid’s Tale, Rose of No Man’s Land, Namesake, Unaccustomed Earth…ask for more recommendations if curious. Nature Lodge + fear of being eaten by anything moving in the forest = S, jumping into my same bed or not sleeping at all thinking she is going to be a chimpanzee’s next meal. Other epiphanies: Chimpanzees are amazing! On our way to Queen Elizabeth we went to Kibale Forest for chimp tracking. Consider this: You are in the middle of the forest with approximately 15 other muzungus looking for chimpanzees, huge mammals that can crush you with basically one blow from their powerful arm strength, when all of a sudden you hear their call. However, their call is not from far away as you expected, but rather, very near…and then you hear another call…and another, and another…until you realize you are surrounded by chimpanzees. Anyone seen the Congo (S…) – me Amy…Amy good gorilla (don’t ask – rent it)? The communication of chimpanzees is an intimidating noise, not at all inviting to outsiders. Still, the first time we saw these creatures, there was an instant connection. Honestly, while I understand that the gorillas are rare and the “thing to see” in Uganda, I cannot imagine them being that much more exciting than the chimpanzees. Anyway, they were pretty awesome. Actually, I think overall, I am a huge primate fan. Baboons by the way are incredibly stubborn animals which rarely fear interaction with homo-sapiens. Haha time: Baboon + ball = crying child (haha!). And then some…Queen Elizabeth. The first day we arrived, J (love you man!), drives right up to a pack of lions so that we can take pictures! Uh huh .first reaction/words which come to mind…game drive, boat drive - elephants. Words can not express the magnificent animals that live in this country. Ask (not me if you want to see them in the next year) to see the pictures. Lake Mburo, zebras.

My Site: Kyotera, Kalisizo, Ssanje/Rakai District: They Saw…

Again, what can I say?! How can I describe in words the fact that my family saw my life for the past year in approximately 2.5 days? They met each and every one of my friends, including seeing the SHARE project team in action, as they talked with both the girls and boys of Sabina about adolescence and HIV/AIDS. I am still baffled as to how we were able to do/see it all (including the ostrich farm – horny b*st**ds) plus talk with people, besides the obvious fact that we had J to help us out with the driving situation. They would have had to stay another month if they wanted to take public transportation in Rakai and see everything we did in those few days. Also, WOW to my amazing family. I think that some of the kids would have rather switched one of them for me. As soon as S got to the school, she began reading with most of the kids in the library, while M was just as involved. D got involved a bit less, but was just as loved by the kids and staff. From the day they visited to now (and I am sure until the time I leave here) I will be asked how my family is and whether they are returning soon. I cannot emphasize the fact that it has been such a long time since interacting with them for a significant period of time, but my appreciation for them has grown fonder ever since. B, I am looking forward to this experience from you as well. I am so lucky to have such wonderful people in my life. Again thank you…for your support, care, love, life…the list goes on. A huge “thank you” from the Sabina/Ssanje community. Gifts + toothbrushes for a year + money for mosquito nets +++++ = LOVE. Since coming here, to Uganda, I have come to appreciate everyone (still) in my life more. While often times this appreciation is difficult to discern, I feel lucky to have each and every family member and friend presently in my life. I know that you all are truly there for me even though I am thousands of miles away and it is a comforting feeling. And scene!...the end. Corniness maze (finished).

The Last Days: They Went

(of the trip…sickos!)

Jinja, the source of the Nile, Kampala, and Entebbe. We left early in the morning from Kyotera to go to Jinja. We stopped at the equator…took some pictures (water/toilet flushing experiment still in progress). In Kampala, because we lost one day at the beginning of the trip, instead of going to the museums as planned, we visited the people at Kiwanga, my other site. Afterwards, we went into town (aka Kampala) and the family shopped at the craft market for gifts. In Entebbe we went to the botanical gardens. While there, we saw a monkey which was walking on its hands. Our guide told us that the monkey had its legs bitten off by a dog and survived. People come from all over to see this monkey. Not only is the monkey a part of a family, but she had a baby, which the rest of the family carry on their backs because she is unable to do so. If this isn’t the most amazing sense of family and care, I don’t know what is! After the botanical gardens we stopped at a gas station to get S some banana chips and then headed to the airport. I wasn’t sure what to expect, in terms of a goodbye for the next year, but I wasn’t expecting S to start crying. Damn her two holed dog! Anyway, it was a sentimental moment. I realized then (and often times before) that maybe my family may actually like being with me…all the more to look forward to when I return in another year.

Since then: The Journey Continues…

*Preparation for India October 1

*PC Country Director un-expectantly leaving

*Reach Out training for qualitative research (in progress)

*Beading…possibly selling them at our monthly dancing in Masaka at the Tropic Inn

(money + publicity)

*Future plans: accelerated BSN (pre-requisites and deciding where, still in progress)

*Periodic calls from J telling me how much he misses my family and thanking them for a care package or pictures from their trip

*Saw my first birth at Musawo L’s clinic…it was much quicker than I thought it would be. I guess there are some perks to having many children.

Until the next 2+ months…just kidding. Post punctuality. Got it!

A Week in the Life of Nansamba Emmy from the Ngabi Clan

Happy 4th of July to all of those US citizens out there!

Thank you again to all of those people who contributed money for the mosquito nets. Each of the boarders has a net on her/his bed now and the house mothers are making sure the kids are sleeping under their nets each night. Webele nyo nyo nyo!

The Schedule (loosely defined)
*Monday: Working with Musawo Lucy as she gives health education and family planning talks to women who are pregnant or at the clinic to immunize their children.
*Tuesday: Teaching life skills to the P2, P3, P4 students and then the P5, P6, P7 students and then off to kyotera to check mail and get lunch sometimes with B (the peace corps volunteer in Kibale – 21km west of me). If there is something particular I need in Ssanje, I get it on a Tuesday because it is market day. In the evenings, R the newest volunteer at Sabina who is staying for 1 year and teaching English and creative writing to the P5 and P6 kids, and I, have started a reading time to encourage the younger kids (P1-P4) to read or listen to stories. Later I often go with R and C to the trading center where we go to our favorite bar for sweet banana wine and a chat (similar, but a little cheaper 1 bottle = 400ushs (20 cents) as compared to 1 pitcher = $3.75, to Tuesday Moes and Joes outings in Atlanta).
*Wednesday: Travel to Kalisizo where I teach qualitative data analysis to the qualitative team at the Rakai Health Sciences Program. Often during lunch I meet up with my friend, J, after saying hi to her family. Depending on the day, I either go to Masaka where I spend the rest of the evening using internet, shopping at actual supermarkets, or hanging out in my hotel room watching a movie, OR, travel back to Ssanje.
*Thursday: Prepare for Club GLOW meeting. Club GLOW meeting.
*Friday: After lunch I travel to Ssanje Primary School where they have started a Club
GLOW and in the evening I walk to St. Mary’s for the health club which was started there.
*Saturday: Free day
*Sunday: After lunch I meet with the 6 girls (wishful thinking…often times more like 3 or 4) of the leadership from Club GLOW to discuss the coming weeks agenda. Afterwards, I either do computer with R, training with 4 kids or meet with Musawo L and the Ssanje women’s group (sounds like the name of a band) which is currently in the process of making reusable menstrual pads. In the evening, R and I have started a reading time for the older kids (P5-P7) to encourage them to read novels and not just picture books.

*Working in the library to help better the checking out process - continuous
*Teaching Nutrition/Cooking (funny…I know) to the Sabina Staff - TBA

**Obviously I have a lot of free time. During this time I read, prepare a lesson, or try to contact someone to discuss a club. More often than not I also use this time to decide/panic about what I am going to be doing with my life when I get back to the states. Presently the options include going back to school to get yet another degree (possibly an MSW/PhD in Social Work) or getting a job. I am leaning towards going back to school because it seems like the safest and most practical transition process.

FYI: This “day in the life” blog, dedicated to G and G from Louisville, KY (impossible to guess), exemplifies the limited routine in my life while I am living in Uganda. Some activities, depending on testing schedules, other school events, the inability of a teacher/coordinator to show up, or holidays, may not happen. I meet with Musawo L probably 2 or 3 times per week to sometimes plan for our women’s group meetings or just to say hi because she is awesome! Additionally, I also work with the parish clinic nurses and the committee to improve attendance as well as the facility. We just received a grant for solar power…good things are about to happen. Other, not as common events such as introductions (engagement parties which are approximately 6+ hours long and completely in Luganda) and seeing friends around the Rakai area also occur.

My First Vacation: Kisoro/Rwanda

Kisoro – The Summit
I left with C early (6am) to go to Masaka on the first day of our travels towards Rwanda. However, once we arrived, we found that the bus going to Kisoro, south western Uganda, does not leave until 11am, so we had a little time to spare before our 8 hour journey. Before we left, I went to use the toilet (behavior of an experience traveler). A kid was asked by his mother to hand me soap. The kid feared me so much that as he came towards me, he looked like he was going to cry, but instead, he threw the soap in my direction and ran off laughing a kind of “panicked – I just saved my life” laugh. After that little incident, I knew that we were going to have a great trip. After approximately 8 hours of being on the bus to Kisoro, we arrived and met up with another Peace Corps volunteer who works at Potter’s Village in Kisoro, H, and a VSO volunteer, C, for dinner. We had an early night though because we wanted to prepare for the next day’s early vocano climb. The next day, H, C, and I, climbed Sabinyo, which is apparently the most difficult volcano to climb on the Ugandan side (there are other volcanoes in Rwanda). Still, our guides assured us that no one has died climbing (as far as they know.) The first few hours of our climb were wet – it rained hard and consistently. Luckily, our wildlife authority cashier had given us each ponchos to wear which we gladly used. Unfortunately, because of my “extreme lack of height” I kept stepping on it and felt it more hinder some than anything else. For most people, the hike takes about 8 hours - top to bottom. For us, it took 10.5 hours. I am blaming most of this on the “fabulous weather” at the beginning of our trek. Anyway, we made it to the top and were literally and figuratively in the clouds. When you get to the top of Sabinyo you are actually in 3 countries – Rwanda, Congo, and Uganda. Also, while Sabinyo is the most difficult volcano to climb, it is not the tallest on the Ugandan side. We stayed at H’s amazing apartment during the nights while we were in Kisoro. The town is really nice and has beautiful views of the lush surroundings and the volcanoes on the Ugandan/Rwandan border.

Rwanda – Monkey“ing’ Around
The next day we rode to the border of Uganda and Rwanda, Cyanika. It was incredibly easy to get through. However, once in Rwanda we were almost overcharged 10x the amount it should have cost us to get to Ruhengeri and then to Gisenyi. The taxi driver tried to get us to pay 4000RFr (Rwandan Franks) as opposed to the 400 it should have cost. To compare the money in Uganda and Rwanda – 25RFr = 100Ushs. Still, things in Rwanda are just as much as they are in Uganda, thus making items almost quadruple the amount! After our arrival in Gisenyi we went to drop off our stuff at our hotel. Most of the hotels we found came from the book which I had bought in the states, Lonely Planet Africa. Thank you much! It was a life saver and we found much cheaper hotels by using it. We then went to Lake Kivu and planned the rest of our trip. From Gisenyi we took a bus to Kibuye. The road was not as bad as we expected. Our friend and permaculture expert from Sabina, M, told us that when he went, people were throwing up all over the bus. Luckily, we did not experience the same trip. It was a very long ride though because the driver kept talking to everyone who passed in their own vehicles in addition to many people in the small villages which we went through. In Kibuye, which is the southern most part of Lake Kivu, we ate lunch and used the internet. We decided to go to the Nungwe Forest the next day in southwestern Rwanda, so we traveled to Gitarama further east and then south to Butare. Once we arrived in Butare, we went to our hotel and then ate dinner at a nice sports bar in the area. Obviously, from the looks of the restaurants, supermarkets, and hotels in the area, Butare is a pretty nice town, not to mention where the National University of Rwanda is located.

A huge problem which we had while in Rwanda was the language barrier. Most people spoke French, Swahili, Rwandese and barely any English. Still, one of the most major affects from the 1994 genocide was that most people in Rwanda hate the French (rightfully so, at least the government, considering they supplied most of the Hutus with the weapons they used to massacre their fellow Rwandans) and have taken all French language learning out of the schools and replaced it with English. Of course this transition is going to take some time, but English will soon prevail in Rwanda. By the by, thank you Peace Corps for your language training! I am sure if I had not had two months of Luganda, I would be just as lost as I was in Rwanda.

The next day did not start off so great. C got his wallet stolen and we could not leave for the forest, which takes about 2 hours to get to from Butare, until 10:15am. Additionally, we thought the entrance to get into the forest would only be $20. We were unpleasantly surprised when we arrived that it actually costs $50 for non-citizens and $30 for citizens (I am considered a citizen of Uganda because of my lengthy stay). Still, the Columbus monkey tracking made up for the cost of entering the forest. They were hilarious because they followed each other from one tree to another (I guess you had to be there). We then walked through the forest on the Grey Trail. It was beautiful walking trail. Afterwards, we hitched a ride from the forest back to Butare. After, C figured out how to get money sent through Western Union, we ate at The Chinese Restaurant in Butare and I actually was able to get veggies and tofu! Our last stop on the trip was Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. Before we left Butare we went to the Musee National du Rwanda or the National Museum of Rwanda, which contained a lot of interesting information pertaining to the geography and history of Rwanda and the people. We then took a taxi to Kigali, which should have taken approximately 2 hours, but lasted more like 4. For the day, we decided to walk around and get acquainted with Kigali and what the city has to offer after finding and leaving our stuff in the hotel in Nyammirambo. Nyamirambo was a very hip area of Kigali. It reminded me of where I lived in Atlanta, called Little 5 Points with graffiti and people walking around with very trendy clothes. Kigali was nice, but offers a lot less in terms of size and things to do as compared to Kampala.

Our last day of the trip, before returning to Uganda, consisted of remembering the genocide of 1994. In the morning we went to Gisozi where the Kigali Memorial Center is located. The memorial is a deeply moving and vivid image of the 1994 genocide of the Tutsis by the Hutus. The bottom floor of the memorial contained graphic images, accounts, and written timelines of what happened before and during that horrific event. The sequence of events reminded me so much of the build up to Holocaust with the propaganda and the fact that many family and friends turned against each other. It was difficult to view the actual machete slices which people inflicted on one another in a film that was being played. The Tutsis were not just killed, they were tortured. Often times, many of their body parts were chopped off or mutilated. Many women were raped and infected with HIV by their perpetrators.

The top floor of the museum gave accounts of other genocides that have taken place in the 20th century – Bosnia, Germany, Cambodia, Kosovo… It is a haunting reminder that “never again” is not happening and the sad truth that people can do such terrible things to each other. Afterwards, we traveled to Ntarama memorial which was approximately 25km south of Kigali. Ntarama is a church where 5000 people were massacred during the genocide. The inside of the church contains the clothes of those murdered, including skulls and other bones from them as well. The priests changing rooms also contained numerous bones from the dead. Outside the church building was a memorial wall with very few names. Most of the bodies were unable to be identified. Only those with identity cards had their names placed on the wall. Most likely many other names will not appear on the wall for a while or ever because most families were killed altogether. After seeing this memorial we went to Nyamata which was also a church where people were massacred during the genocide. In Nyamata, approximately 10,000 people were put to death. There were skulls and other bones inside the church, but many more were behind the church in an underground area which also contained caskets of bones. There was a distinct smell inside this underground area was of moldiness (death). It was haunting walking between piles of skulls and bones. Some of the bones were positioned in a way where visitors could see the bullet wound or machete slices which caused that person’s death. After having lunch in Nyamata, we went back to Kigali and spent the rest of the afternoon walking around.

Our trip back to Uganda was stressful. We woke up at 4am in the morning and rushed to the bus park, only to find that the tickets to Kampala on the Kampala Coach were all sold out. We went to another bus park called Jaguar, where we had to wait to purchase tickets. While waiting, C, realized he did not have his passport. I was freaking out because I assumed that it was stolen, but we went back to the hotel (mangu, mangu – quickly, quickly) where luckily it was there. Pheww…we went back to the Jaguar bus park and got 2 tickets to Kampala at 6am. Finally, we were good to go. Though, when we arrived at the border of Rwanda and Uganda we had to wait in line for over 1 hour for the exit stamp from Rwanda and over 1.5 hours for the entrance stamp into Uganda. Approximately, 13 hours after first getting onto the bus in Kigali, we arrived back in Ssanje. Still, before we were to get off the bus in Uganda, near Masaka, our bus almost capsized because the back wheels hit a large dip in the dirt road which the police directed us on as a detour from some accident. We all got out of the bus because we thought we were going to flip with it. Some how, after about 45 minutes of debate and work to prevent the bus from tipping over we were able to get safely back on the road with the help of many people pushing and leveraging the back wheel. Overall, we had a great trip, but I am happy to be back in Uganda where I feel some what comfortable and at home these days.

“Over the Hill” to Tanzania

Happy birthday to all 50,000,000+ people whose birthdays fall in the month of May! D and S…the title is named specifically for you (through the transitive property, I guess myself as well).

What happens when you have very little or no money, disease and death are a common occurrence within your society, and nothing seems to be in your control? …You rely on God. Your life is not your own but rather controlled by that higher being. Life for most Ugandans is very much determined by God’s will. If something good or bad happens it is always “God’s plan.” In a way, this way of looking at life can be scary. Nothing is in your control. Therefore, will you have the ambition or the passion to achieve those goals which you have always wanted to perform before you die or to have a better life for yourself? Probably not. Religion (Christianity) in Uganda is constant and always in the minds of people. Similarly, thinking "outside the box" has not happened yet, especially in the villages. Every ducca (shop) carries basically the same items. I cannot determine how people make money even on the smallest scale...possibly from frequent or regular customers known as their friends?

Our first women’s group meeting was a great success, besides for the fact that the first woman came 1.5 hours late to the meeting. Still, we had approximately 40 women from the Ssanje community show up. Musawo Lucy, who headed the meeting, was an amazing facilitator. We talked about the needs of the group, as well as possible activities we could do (iga-income generating activities, cash around…). For an income generating activity, I showed the women the reusable menstrual pads which I had made a few times since coming here. They were thrilled and I was thrilled by their excitement! We are going to try to make the pads for the women and as an iga. Already I have gotten the making process translated into Luganda by none other than the fabulous Musawo Lucy.

As you can read, the title of this blog entry implies that I have been to Tanzania. Technically, not really. A visa to Tanzania is costly, about $100, which is more than any other country costs to cross. I have no idea what we (the US) did to piss the government of Tanzania off and charge us more, but it must have been pretty bad. Anyway, C, M and a Ugandan female, N were led by a Tanzanian female, R to the border of Uganda and Tanzania, Mutukula. While there we had a little stroll on the other side for a bit, said a couple of “jambo(s)” or “hello(s)” to the nice Tanzanian folks, and then headed back. The Ugandan goats are so much cooler than those in Tanzania. It is impossible to explain, but rather you will have to see for yourself some day. Unfortunately, the border patrol would not stamp any of our passports because we just walked around the area without actually “entering” the country. The most interesting part of the exploration was coming upon a school, most likely primary, that was still in session (the Tanzanian kids were still working hard while my [yes, I feel I can claim them as my own now] Ugandan kids were off on holidays). Within the school grounds were 3 tanks. These tanks must have been from the time of Amin, when Tanzania was helping in the fight. The discrepancy between the innocent youth and the tanks was a fascinating site to see.

Birthday Weekend:
Traveled to Kampala with C and M
Stayed out wayyy too late on Friday night with friends
Ate at an amazing Ethiopian restaurant
Found a place which serves dirty martinis (not as easy as it sounds…only at the most expensive -$200/night for the cheapest room- hotel in Kampala known as the Serena)
Got another tattoo (of course at the one legitimate tattoo parlor in all of Uganda) on the left wrist…my own design having to do with my favorite numbers 9, 2, 5 – S will explain
*In total that makes 3 – Chicago, Israel and Uganda
Birth-Day: Calls from the US (thank you for caring), but otherwise uneventful as I traveled back to Ssanje with C.

Official Name for the Boy Empowerment Club: Club BLISS (Boys Living Intelligently [wishful thinking :P] and Serving Society)

Up next…Rwanda

The Long Awaited Blog Entry (I hope it lives up to expectations)

Where I live: There is rural Uganda and there is not so rural Uganda. I live in rural Uganda. In other words, I am surrounded by vast landscapes and many animals. The only paved road which I live near is the road connecting Kampala, Masaka and Mutukula (Tanzania). All other roads are dirt. Cows and goats roam around the area sometimes freely and other times tied to trees or plants (treatment of animals…don’t go there). These animals provide a lot of income for families. Cows provide milk and meat, while goats provide nice lawn mowers (and they are kind of awesome because their eyes bulge out and are a bit crazy looking). Most people ride bikes or walk. Those who can afford to use a taxi (most of the time a Toyota corolla) are packed into the backseat with most likely 5 other adult passengers, while the front seat often serves at least 3 (this means getting pretty cozy with the driver). The cost of travel here is very cheap by American standards. In order to travel to Kyotera, the closest biggest town which is 24km away, it costs 2,000ushs = ~ $1. Masaka, an even bigger town which is over 60km away, costs 5,000ushs by taxi.

SHARE (Safe Homes and Respect for Everyone), which deals with domestic violence and other issues of gender inequalities within the villages, came to talk to the girls during a Club GLOW meeting. The discussion and lesson went amazingly well. The girls participated in the discussions beautifully and both D and M from the organization gave amazing talks. M talked about puberty, while D talked about places where the girls felt unsafe and reasons for those feelings. He then went on to discuss ways in which the girls could feel safe in those uncomfortable situations. And of course the discussion of NOT playing sex (having sex) and respecting one’s body was a big part of the discussion. One of the most entertaining parts of the afternoon was when two girls had to participate in a role play…one was herself and another a boy, who tried to convince the other girl that she was beautiful and he wanted to play sex with her. The girl told “him” off wonderfully.

Another project which I am starting is a health club at a nearby secondary school called St. Mary’s. During an all school assembly I discussed the club with the students. Basically, they will be teaching each other about health topics of their own interests. We will give each other feedback pertaining to the presentations and hopefully eventually be ready to present these issues to primary schools around the area. The health club can be a promising project. However, students teaching students is way out of the norm in Uganda. My plan is to teach the secondary students in the club (around 50) how to present health topics in a sometimes interactive, but interesting manner. During the meeting I asked for suggestions pertaining to particular health topics which they would like to cover. I received some excellent topic suggestions such as cancer, hypertension, and diabetes, which is not often talked about due to many other overbearing health issues like HIV and malaria which Ugandan’s face.

On Wednesdays I travel to Kalisizo (40+km away from Ssanje), where the Rakai Health Sciences Program is, in one of those corolla taxis with 10 or so other people who may or may not be stopping there as well. I have finally received a position working with the qualitative data analysis department. Presently I am preparing a presentation on different topics which they requested based on qualitative analysis research. I am hoping also to become more involved in the PeerSMART program, which I was able to become aware of through a former Emory alumn, L.C. and others at the facility.

Thank you (webele nyo) to all those people who are contributing to the mosquito net fund for the students to receive treated mosquito nets. Treated mosquito nets are better than untreated because they repel the mosquitoes from coming near the students beds and they also kill the mosquito if it touches the net. I am still looking into the cost of nets, but it seems like it may be a little more expensive for the treated net ~10,000ushs = $5 (just an FYI). If anyone would like to contribute to the fund, please contact my family or me through phone, email or this blog.

Emotional Venting Section (EVS)

FRUSTERATING: Being called muzungu, gwe (you), whistled at, honked at, telling people “nsinze muzungu, nze Emmy (Nansamba, Aunt, Aunti Amy)” or “I am not a muzungu, I am…” and having them give you blank stares in return; saying the previous statement and as you turn around that same child yells “byeee muzungu” (we’ll see how many of those children make it through my two years of peace corps); adults (mostly men) calling me muzungu and not nyabo (madamn)

ANNOYING: People laughing or snickering when you speak Luganda because they assume you know none; matatou drivers trying to raise the prices of their rides because you are white (never will this happen! I will skip the ride twenty times over before I pay more than what I am supposed…a**holes!); being asked if you have a masajja (husband); being called Emma after 9 months at site by those who should most definitely know my name; a Ugandan (most) assuming that all white women are sisters, related in some way or even the same person

HAPPINESS: kids calling me Aunt, Aunt Amy, or Amy and adults calling me madamn or nyabo; escaping to Masaka and Kampala

HILARIOUS: kids calling C, a 19 year old white American male with a facial hair, Aunt Amy, or calling M, a 31 year old white Canadian male with extremely curly and longish hair, muzungu Amy (I just can’t win…)

In progress…
*Boy Empowerment (If anyone can think of a good name for the club similar to that of GLOW (girls leading our world), but not BLOW (don’t be naïve, you understand why) I will make sure to name the next goat born in Ssanje after you…that is assuming I know the next goat expecting and am there when the new born goat arrives…surely)
*Women’s Group – Re-starting and inviting CoU women guardians and parents

Seriously!?

No...your eyes are not deceiving themselves and whether you are on some type of narcotic or not...this chick really is PURPLE! Quite possibly one of the most miraculous sites of my life (Ugandans say that it is due to some type of medicine, but I am pretty sure this is a completely natural phenomenon).

This may be the only blog entry for February or ever (of coure I am not being serious about the "ever" statement...no need to panic). I am almost positive nothing else that has happened or is going to happen this month can compete with this chick. Now, what should we name this little thing? Suggestions welcomed.